Nazca

Following yet another night bus we arrived in Nazca to join 2 of our friends from the Inca Trail, Gemma and Greg. Nazca is basically a hot desert, once home of a pre-Inca civilization over 2000 years ago and the site of the second highest sand dune (see distance of the picture).

As well as creating the famous Nazca lines there is also much more to see from the ancient Nazca people. Being a desert water was very valuable and so to ensure that crops could be irrigated they built a long underground aqueduct with various water holes along its path. Here is one of the water holes, they had to dig fairly low down to hit water so instead of a deep well which could easily be destroyed through earthquake they built stone terraces down to the holes, which also made for easier access.

2000 year on these holes still exist as does the long underground aqueduct.

Their temples are even deeper into the windy desert.

Many great mounds can be seen from the path and yet only a few have been excavated. Due to the weather, excavation can only take place 2 months of the year, and the sand is fast to re-cover much of it.


Very windy desert.

These amazing temples still stand after 2000 years despite the conditions. It makes Matchu Picchu look modern at only 500 years old.

Nearby the temples, we were taken to a burial site, again no real excavation has occurred and as a result graves have surfaced either through erosion or grave looting.

What is left is a sandy area cluttered with bones, hair, clothing and pottery of ancient Nazcarians.

Left for people to walk amongst, destroy or even steal should they wish to. Incredible to think how differently we would preserve such a find.

So of course we had to see the Nazca lines. The best way (and the only decent way) to do it was from the air. However due to various accidents most of the airlines have been closed down as they did not meet the basic safety standards. Good news as we can be slightly more confident in the safety of the ones left, bad news as the prices have rocketed.

Finally we boarded our small 6 seater plane (with 2 pilots). Ready for take off!

We were up, the amazing view of the desert below.

Many lines from general footpaths etc. How on earth was I supposed to see the Nazca Lines?

How indeed as they were a lot smaller than I expected and a lot fainter. Here is the astronaut.

There are many theories as to why they made the lines. Some believe it was as an offering to the rain gods, some as an astrological chart, some believe they plot the underground water tables and other simply believe that they were drawn by aliens. Here is the hummingbird if you can spot it.

We saw 12 in total, my camera did not pick them out well but here are the tree and hands .

All in all it was awesome actually and the plane ride was worth it just to see the landscape, despite my nerves!

The Inca Trail & Machu Picchu

Before starting the Inca trail we decided to look around Cuzco while we acclimatized. The most impressive ruins at Cuzco are up a steep pathway to - the Sacsayhuaman ruins.

The view of Cuzco was amazing from there.

The ruins themselves are the best example of Inca stone work we saw. Huge rocks so exactly fitted together. The ruins were a ritual ground to celebrate the sun but also doubled as a fortress in the revolution against the Spanish, it is still used today to celebrate the summer solstice on the 21st of Dec each year. Unfortunately a lot of the stones were taken to build the city by the Spanish.

How they put these structures together is incredible.

Some of the structures were built as a part of the existing rock.

Soon we were nearly ready to set off on the Inca trail but day 1 with the group was to visit the Sacred Valley. First stop a highland village that had been wiped out recently by a landslide, a very scary and real hazard of this area.

The women in the village spun, dyed and wove alpaca wool using traditional methods.

The Scared Valley was beautiful and so vast.

The Incas built terraces into mountains to plant crops. They were built high up, as were the villages, they believe due to the threat of floods lower down the valleys during the wet season.

The villages and terraces were built by huge teams of men who travelled from site to site as part of a sort of national service. Of the crops that were grown, a percentage went to the village, part to royalty and a part to the military.

We stayed that night in Ollantaytambo, sat outside drinking hot chocolate surrounded by mountains.

The following day we got up early to set off on the Inca Trail, a group photo at the official start.

The first day we all looked fresh and ready for action as we started our way up the valley.

The view back down the valley, Kenny looking older as it was his 32nd birthday the day we set off!

Yes the poor old man, needs a snooze after lunch!

The team with us were incredible we had, 2 guides, 2 cooks and 22 porters all to get 16 of us over the trail. Every meal was a sit down affair of at least 2 courses even lunch on the mountain side! They even managed to cook a cake for Kenny at very late notice on a camping stove!

Day 2 was the day of the high pass where we had to climb 1200 meters up to 4200 meters.

As we got higher and higher the views became more spectacular.

The path led on further up the valley.

Until we all made it to the top, to rain & cold.

Our tents were a welcome site, already erected by the time we got down by the porters. The porters really are amazing they all carry around 26 kg and literally run up and down the trail.

Our camp surrounded by mist hiding the view.

Day 3 was............. well......... wet.

Mainly downhill on old Inca pathways.

Which wound down through the valley through caves and more Inca ruins.

The mist clung on.

The old steep paths were often a little slippy in the wet.

Very soon we could see the bottom of the valley.

As we neared the day 3 camp we passed through Intipata ruins, a farming settlement.

End of day 3 and the campsite was next to a hostel with a bar! It would have been rude not to visit it surely?

Our full team on our last night together as we formally thanked our porters and cooks.

Day 4, last day and the final hike to Machu Picchu. We were woken at 3.30am to set off to the check point, but due to lots of rain, spent time waiting indoors. Finally we set off, not all of us were feeling as joyvial as Kenny.

After 1.30 hours of hiking we arrived at the Sun Gate. Had it not been raining we would have tried to get here for sunrise to enjoy the amazing view of Machu Picchu on the other side at its best.

Not quite the best view down the valley...............

This is what it should have looked like courtesy of Google Images.

The, so called, Sun Gate.



A chap called Andy on our trip had carried with him a toy llama from the market all the way over the trail, we decided to sacrifice it to the Sun God!

It did not work immediately...............

............ and then the mist started to lift!

To show us the true glory of Machu Picchu.

No photo does it justice, it is a town build over 500 years ago on the top of a mountain using only basic tools and building methods.

Apparently 40% of it is still covered by foliage further down the mountian but they fear it will collapse should they try to uncover it.

After a tour round this incredible place we were given free time, so we decided to climb the mountain to the right of us another Inca site 'Waynapicchu' only 400 people per day are allowed up, I was number 342 on this day.

Of couse we headed off up the 'Big' one.

Kenny, Tom & I set off in gloriuos sunshine!

Up the steep, narrow pathway.

Very steep at times!

For well over half an hour we climbed.

But wow the veiw was worth it, Machu Picchu looked so little down below.

All that was left was to come down the way we went up.

We said our goodbyes to Machu Picchu and after taking the bus down the winding road to Aguas Callientes we boarded the train back to Ollantaytambo and then the bus to Cuzco.

The whole trip had taken its toll on Kenny.