Monday, 27 December 2010

Mendoza to Santiago


Mendoza is a great city, many tree lined streets, beautiful plazas and great little cafes.

Mendoza is the wine capital of Argentina, so of course we had to go on a wine tour!

Kenny taking the 'wine tasting' too far.

Barrel after barrel of fine wines ageing in French Oak.

Of course the tasting! The wines were fantastic. With Mendoza region being famous for the 'Malbec' (a wonderful, full bodied red), we decided to buy a bottle of their finest for Christmas day in New Zealand. Well how could we not with the basic wines priced at around £2-3 a bottle and a good one at £4-6!

While we were there some friends we met in Ecuador, Anne & Nick (not them off the Telly!), suggested we meet up again in an 'at home restaurant'. Trendy in London, I believe, chefs basically turn their front rooms into a restaurant for the night. Only 1 table (6 for dinner) and a 5 course meal with carefully chosen wine. Martin & Martin hosted and cooked perfectly, all 6 of us finished every thing on every plate of all 5 courses - it was that good!!! (If you are ever in Mendoza, let me know, and I will give you their contact details).

Martin & Martin in their 'restaurant'. (Is it just me, or does Martin on the left look more like Eric Cantona than I do? - Kenny)

After a short visit to Mendoza, we had to hot heel it off to Chile & Santiago! With only the Andes and a border crossing in our way.

At the border, where Chile are paranoid about people bringing in illegal products (including apples!), it took over 4 hours to get through! They checked every bag inside & out.

Wow! The Andes have been spectacular every time we have seen them.

The roads have also never failed to shock & surprise!

On & on & on....................

.............. finally to Santiago and our last night in South America. A very modern city largely due to the number of earthquakes they have had to re-build from.

Just a simple street in Santiago? No - Not just an ordinary street. This street, and all the ones around it, were home to Opticians after Opticians. I would not be exaggerating if I said there were 50+ in one block! All independents but how easy is it for this Account Manager to hit call rate!
(If you don't understand this, then you obviously don't work with Sarah. But trust me, it's funny! - Kenny)


The crazy currency here means that £1 was worth 728 Pesos - and we thought our fuel prices were high!

Even though we were only here one day we loved Santiago for its restaurants, if nothing else.
Looking forward to New Zealand and our camper van stretch of the trip, and due to the international dateline we totally miss the 23rd of December! Spooky.

Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Argentina - The Lake District


We left El Calafate on yet another bus 12 hours with a night stop over in Puerto Mereno and another 12 hour bus early the next day to Bariloche in the Lake District, nestled along the Andes in the west of Argentina.

The bus journey was interesting, there were no luxuries on the coach so we had regular food & bathroom stops. These are the typical toilet facilities we encountered - not as bad as they look (no where near as bad as the Inca Trail). Most of the journey was along dirt roads, so no more than 40 miles an hour most of the way!

The restaurant entrance.

Bariloche! The view from the main square, an amazing town on the edge of a huge lake.

The main square.............

............ very alpine.

The lake with mountainous backdrop.

Bariloche is famous for the lakes & mountains but also for the chocolate shops.

As we walked down the main street..............

............. for only 1 block!.................

............... we spotted tonnes of these supermarket like chocolate shops ................

................ for a chocolate lover/addict ...............

....................... it was a mixture of heaven ...........................

................ and hell ............................

.................... as I am attempting to get fit again for New Zealand.

They tasted amazing! Dulche de Leche chocolates - WOW!

Argentina has hammered our budget. We were not expecting it to be so expensive (relative to the rest of South America), especially the buses. So we had to downsize on our rooms. Here is our Bariloche hostel room, christened the 'Potting Shed' as that was exactly what is was: tiny, complete with ivy growing in from outside! (What you see is the room in its full form - I took the photo from outside the door).

The lakes are best viewed from the seat of a bike, so we headed off to the bike hire shop.

My word were the views incredible as we set off round the peninsula.

Wild Broom and Lupins grew everywhere and (lucky us) we were there to see them in their full glory.

The lake was amazing, like a painting.

Like really amazing.

We were having an incredible time until Kenny unsuccessfully executed a moving dismount, tumbling down a roadside back spraining his ankle on the way! Here he is being advised to elevate whilst I rode off to find a phone to call for rescue.
(Rather dissapointed that, among all of these fabulous views, I crashed by a rubbish bin with a view of inpenetrable woodland. Typical! - Kenny)

Back on the bus and further north we arrived in San Martin De Los Andes.

Again a wonderful alpine looking town on the edge of a great lake.

In the winter a ski town. In the summer a relaxing town.

Due to the ankle injury we opted for a boat ride up the lake to a small bay.

With yet another wonderful view.

Kenny managed a short hike with the aid of a walking pole, where a local dog who adopted us for the walk...

...to a crystal clear waterfall.

The Lake District was a beautiful place to visit and, like Southern Patagonia, we could have stayed longer and would love to return. Now our flight out of South America looms, our penultimate bus journey to Mendoza and its vineyards beckon.

Friday, 17 December 2010

Patagonia


After chilling out in Buenos Aires, we headed off down the East coast to a small town called Puerto Madryn. Famous for its wildlife, we booked onto a trip round the Valdes Penninsula. This flat land is home to penguines, sea lions & elephant seals, along with many others.

The beautiful sunshine did little to disguise the sharp nip in the air as we walked down to the sea lion beach. Their huge bodies hardly moved as they laid on the beach.

Apart from the dominant male who was trying to protect his future conquests.

Further round we stopped once more to say Hello to a large colony of penguins. It was as if they were posing for the camera as they held their heads high and posistioned themselves in convienient photo spots.

They were also very, very cute!

Final stop along this incredible stretch of the Atlantic coast was to see the Elephant Seals.

However they were all too far in the distance for photos.

The dramatic coast line made up for it. (If you look closely, those white specs at the top edge of the beach are elephant seals - just really far away! - Kenny)

The main aim of the day was to go Southern Wright Whale watching. We were taken down to the beach, dressed in life jackets and boarded a small-ish boat.

The bumpy ride out did not take too long before we stopped, I expected to only see these magnificant mammels from a distance and only if we were very lucky.

To my amazement within minutes we saw a mother & calf group comming towards us.

They had no fear of the boat and ventured in within arms reach!

Litterally!!!!!

We remained out until we had seen 3 sets of mothers and calfs. It was incredible to see these creatures so close and amazing to watch the babies actually playing in the water with their mothers.

As we are now running out of time in South America, we had little time in Puerto Madryn and headed off deep into Patagonia the next day. After many hours on busses we arrived in a place called 'El Calafate'. A small town on the edge of the Andes, very touristy and extremely alpine looking. The town had one main street full of wooden buildings with long sloping roofs containing either hotels, restaurants or gift shops. The scenery was beautiful, very vast and open with a large lake near the town.

We decided to explore further on horse back one evening.

We walked up the valley, once again the air had a cold nip to it.

With the Andes mountains in the distance.

The horses knew their way and before long we were back at the farm lodge.

The wooden lodge has the most fanatastic view over the valley and a big Parilla Bar-B-Que, where we enjoyed a very filling dinner. (The girl is not Kenny's new woman but a lovely girl we met from Taiwan).

Outside the lodge at sunset.

El Calafate is famous for one of the most beautiful glaciers in the world. 'Perito Moreno' is around 19 miles long, 3 miles wide and 74 meters high! We boarded a boat to get a closer look.

Unfortunately the mist had descended.

Even so the glacier was awesome.

And HUGE!

So incredible to see it so close up.

The amazing blue colour gleemed through.

I must have taken a hundred photos but every side looks so different with different shapes.

There is also a network of walkways around this section of the glacier so we could see it from more angles.

An ice cave.

Amazing sight, well worth the trip.

Back on the road we travelled north to 'El Chalten'. A very small town in the middle of a national park, the only activity here is to go hiking. All busses stop at the rangers lodge for instruction and maps before entering the town. We also discovered how far from home we are. (In case you can't make it out, London was 13,754km, roughly 8,600 miles in old money. For the first time on this trip, I felt very far from home. - Kenny).

Two streets lined with hostels, mountain shops and restaurants we find our hostel infront of a craggy outcrop.

The weather turned wet and cold so we took refuge in a micro brewery next door. Good ale, at last, to Kenny's delight.

Day 2 the weather was still bad, we even had snow, which is odd considering it is summer here. However we decided to brave the cold and do a small hike.

It was very chilly.

Plus the view at the top was a little clouded!

Kenny decided we were best to come back to town and return to the brewery for the rest of the day.

Day 3 - Wow, since arriving we had no idea this was the view from our hostel!

A perfect day to do the most famous hike hear up to see 'Fitz Roy'.

It really was more than stunning, the entire walk gave us these views.

First sight of Fitz Roy (left peak).

There was snow on the ground, to prove it Kenny made this tiny snowman.

Still a distance from Fitz Roy the pointed rock in the center.

Lunch stop. Ummm empanadas.
(For those of you not au fait with empanadas, they're basically Spanish Cornish Pasties, but with a variety of different fillings. Widely available across South America and yummy indeed! - Kenny)

Hiking through snow, it was a little slippy............

................. but the incredible area more than made up for it.

Finally Fitz Roy up close.

Walking to the bus station the next morning. We are so sad to leave this area, it is the top place on our trip so far. Both of us have said we want to return. A mixture of wonderful scenery, amazing hiking and very, very good food.
Next stop - The Lake District.