Tuesday, 18 January 2011

The rest of North Island


After the big tree we headed down the west coast towards Auckland, stopping off to walk up Mount Auckland. Not very tall but still a climb on such a hot day.

After walking through forest with no view we reached the top and were met by a clear view of the sea.

We arrived in Auckland and stayed the night with some of Kenny's uni friends Jon & Nicole. We were so grateful for the fantastic barbeque food and big 'proper' bed and a shower.

As near as we came to Auckland city centre as we headed of East to the Coromandel region to do some walking.

We set off in the stifling heat to walk up through the forest on what they called the 'Billy Goat Track'. An old track carved for the passage of donkeys to enable them to drag the timber, gum & gold down the valley.

The track was steep and narrow.

With wonderful little streams and waterfalls all running into the river below.

The steps had been pain stakingly carved out of the rock for the donkeys to safely walk.

Me in a felled tree trunk - these things were huge!

Finally at the top.

A railway on the way back down made it easier for the logs to be transported.

Back across the river at the bottom to our mozzie filled campsite - honestly the whole way through malaria land in South America with not one single bite and one day here I look like I have the pox!

We decided to head South and West (to avoid the mozzies if nothing else!). The Kiwis, trying their best to attract tourists to stop, make attractions of anything but we were so intrigued by the brown sign stating that there was a 'large L&P bottle' up ahead that we had to stop. There was in fact a large L&P bottle (the NZ locally made fizzy drink).

We had heard that there were many places to 'free camp' in NZ. Our budget had taken such a hit in South America that we decided to try to save the £10 or so a night and go Freedom Camping. The rules, as we saw them, were you can camp anywhere that does not specifically say 'no camping'. After all we are very self-contained in our van. The first place did not disappoint we had a wonderful view of the river and even flush toilets! Great value for money I think. (Near Cambridge mid S. Island)

After finding such a score place to camp we decided to stay there 2 nights so headed just up the road to Hamilton to visit their botanical gardens and have a picnic. (Hamilton was just up the road from Cambridge, which was next to Leamington. Anyone else completely disorientated and cinfused? - K)

The English garden.

The Chinese garden.

These beautiful flowers are everywhere, they seems to grow wild here, I do not know their name but I have a mother and a mother-in-law who do? (Please email).

We were told by everyone who had visited NZ that we could not missed going to see the glowworms. Waitomo caves are the most famous.

After a short drive up the limestone valley we walked over to the mouth of a small cave, where our guide showed us an eel in the water (random!)

Sporting my caving helmet.

Finally into the cave.

Lights out we were soon to be struck silent by these amazing creatures.

Only found in New Zealand (and a few in Oz) these worms, actually maggots attract their dinner (flys etc) by emitting a small light through a chemical reaction in their bellies.

It was one of the most special things i have ever seen, i could have watched them for hours.

A next door cave promised stalic mights & tights.

And that is what we got.

Eerie up lighting effect.

Another 'Freedom Camping' experience from our private camp ground that night.

Before leaving North Island we headed down to Lake Taupo.

Home of....................

No exaggeration here it was huge!

The most expensive bottle in the shop.

Black swans on the lake.

The one thing with our new camping method is no showers and often no toilets. However NZ has it all sorted for you with good public loos everywhere!!! At these ones you can go to the loo and have a shower for a mere £1.20, bargain!

It was now time to hot foot it down the country to catch our ferry to South Island but not without stopping at a few land marks. 'Mount Doom' from Lord of the Rings.

A huge wellie.

In the wellie wanging capital of NZ.

An international airport complete with airplane cafe above it.

As well as some of the most spectacular countryside on our drive.

.........................

Finally we made it to Hamilton to catch our ferry.
North Island was incredible and well worth the time we spent here, it is a very cultural place full of Mauri history.

Tuesday, 4 January 2011

New Zealand - North Island - Northland


We landed in New Zealand at 4 am on Christmas Eve.

After a few hours wait, we collected our camper - Well, a converted people carrier. Cozy but the cheapest option.

Decorated to ensure we would never lose it in both car park or campsite.

Soon we had arrived near a little town called Waipu up the North East coast where, every year, they had a Christmas Eve parade (the only one in the whole of New Zealand still continuing). Local groups and clubs all dressed up on floats. Oh and Waipu - very serious about their Scottish heritage.

They even had tartan sheep!

We have big trailers as floats they have big boats.

The pony club.

We soon fell asleep and woke early for our Christmas Day breakfast.

Waded through the lake to hit the beach.

Christmas day on the beach. (Which was totally deserted!)

Totally!

A Wall tradition - Champagne on Christmas morning. (Well fizzy wine for us).

We were invited by a family camping next to us for Christmas lunch. The strangest Xmas lunch ever, a sausage with 3 hash browns! These Kiwis!

Followed by an afternoon body boarding, courtesy of the kind family who lent us their boards. Kenny's first time on a board and he assures me he did not have his eyes closed the whole time. (When you miss-time a wave, you tend to get a lot of spray in the face. That's all I'm saying! - K)

Finally our barbeque tea to round off a true South-of-the-Equator Xmas day.

We were warned to head off soon if we wanted to find space at the campsites up north as the whole of Auckland will be setting off for their summer camping holidays on Boxing Day. Luckily with a people carrier we did not need much room and they managed to squeeze us in next to the toilets. (Whananaki campsite).

The bays up here just get more and more beautiful.

With warm oceans and clean beaches.

Many caves and coves to explore.

Hopefully the tide was not on its way in? (My recollection was that the tide was very much on its way in - Hence why we had to scramble over rocks to get to the cave! - K)

So relaxing after our crazy last few weeks in South America.

Need I say more? ......................

...........................

Getting used to this one stove cooking - Chili was on the menu.

Nearby they bragged about the 'Longest Footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere', it was indeed very long, but not sure how long as there was no sign. So we will have to take their word for it.

Worth it for the beautiful view across the inlet.

We headed off again, (this time further north to Waitangi the famous 'Treaty Grounds') when the rains came. The van is small but even smaller when you are stuck in it in the rain. Uno and snacks came out as afternoon entertainment (something we are now very familiar with).
(You didn't mention the fact that it's really Dinosaur Uno, Sarah! - K)

The Treaty grounds are where the British signed a treaty with the Mauri in 1840 to agree to mutual terms of trade, protection and settlement etc. This was to set the scene for the future and, although there were some glitches, the treaty still shines through today as the Mauri & European Kiwis live together in relative harmony.

The Mauri meeting house.

Wonderfully decorated with woodcarvings representing all the local tribes.

Our guide next to the flag pole which holds the British flag the modern NZ flag and the old flag designed at the time of the treaty to identify the ships (based on the St George cross design).

We watched a show reenacting some of the Mauri songs, dances and traditions including the famous Haka.

The tongues out and eyes wide to challenge and intimidate - I joined in with the spirit of it!

Yet further up the coast to pitch up for New Year at Maitai Bay.

Starting with Uno & wine in our little home.

The kitchen in the back with bed just in front which can be converted to a small table (if we could be bothered moving it all around each day).

New Years Eve tea - Thai Green Curry (getting good on the camping stove).

Champagne on the beach at midnight, Kenny looking a little worse for wear.

As was I.

Heading even further north on New years Day we stopped on 90 mile beach (again I feel the Kiwis have exaggerated here as the road alongside is only 66 miles). Can be driven up but unfortunately we were forbidden in our hire van.

Happy New Year - Welcome 2011.

Right at the very top of North Island once again the beautiful beaches.

With the most northerly light house.

This most northern point has a little tree growing out of it - the Mauris believe that once you die your spirt heads north to fly off back to the home land, this little tree is the take off spot for those spirits.

Beaches and waves and water warm enough to swin in, we had such fun jumping about in the surf and as the showers on the site were cold (as are most on the the cheaper or remote campsites) it doubled up as a bath!

Heading back down we stopped off at a place that promised to show us so big rocks!

It was not wrong. There were some very big rocks!

All strewn down a valley floor where a Dutch guy had spent many years building walkways amongst them.

Some only just big enough for Kenny to squeeze through!

Some big enough for me to fit into!

A beautiful walk.

Kenny also found a big tree - preface for tomorrow.

At the top of the valley looking down at all those rocks!

Another campsite another gas top tea.

After the big rocks, we thought we ought to stop off at the big trees! These big Kauri trees are huge. This is the biggest, they grow for thousands of years and have diameters that are metres across.

A split tree.

They really are massive this one is only the 7th biggest in NZ.

The four sisters.

Time for one more tree before heading back to Auckland and down South.
Christmas and New Year were awesome here but very, very odd. Where at home we all group to togther indoors, out here they all hit the beach. We have been able to slow our pace down here too, after rushing around South America. Things are so much closer together, and anyway, I am not sure I have the stamina to be a 'night' camper and drive for 12 hours like the night busses.
So, time to relax, cook our own food, do our own washing and go do lots of 'tramping'.
All good in new Zealand apart from the Mozzies!